Phil: I was in the Virgin Islands once. I met a girl. We ate lobster and drank pina coladas. At sunset we made love like sea otters. *That* was a pretty good day. Why couldn’t I get that day over and over and over…-From the movie Groundhog Day.
Today I indulged myself in my occasional sinful pleasure at lunch. I drove up to Krystal-wolfed down four Krystal’s and a shake-then I went to Barnes and Noble. I spent about 35 minutes or so walking through the bookstore-reading various titles. Came out poorer than when I went in.
And that-aside from the decreasing sexual morsels the S.O. deems fit to throw my way ( she is getting Americanized it seems)-is the highlight of my days, these days.
Twas once not always so. Seeing this post from Spike, took me back in my memory to a better time, some nine years ago this month, when I first set foot upon the land surrounding the Fragrant Harbor-with the awe and sense of wonder that a child feels on Christmas morning.
I had been in Asia about a month-and had experienced more adventure and joy than I ever thought was possible. When I left for Japan I knew I wanted to go to Hong Kong-the city had fascinated me since I was little boy reading about it in National Geographic. Being a rampant Anglophile-and retrograde supporter of the British Empire- I was on fire to see what was one of the last vestiges of what once was and probably still should be.
So, as soon as I could carve out the money, one Friday night I hopped on the train to Narita and some six hours later I was walking, wide eyed, through Hong Kong International Airport. Hopped the train to Kowloon and found my way by taxi to my hotel. Since I was trying to save money, it was a cheapo hotel up in Yau Ma Tei. Since I had not become as enraptured with Wanchai as I later did, I spent a lot of time up in Kowloon. Not being savvy in the ways of Hong Kong night life-in hindsight, it was clear I had missed some opportunities. Still I could not complain-much.
On my last day in town though, I was up at a reasonable hour and decided that I should see the South Side of Hong Kong Island. I had read that there was a park over there and so onto the MTR I hopped. Not really knowing how to get there, when I arrived at Central, I meandered up towards Sheung Wan till I found a bus stop that had the name Aberdeen on it. As Spike’s picture shows, it was a little bit of journey from one side to the other.
For those who have never been to Hong Kong-you just don’t go straight south, over Victoria Peak, as the bus routes ( and the roads) go around the edge of the island. So I went from center to left on the picture and around to the “W” you see in the lower left corner of Hong Kong Island. There I departed the bus-more than a little apprehensive.
Rather than find myself in a park-I found myself in the middle of apartment buildings-and it appeared not so many Gweilos such as me were present:
Nonetheless, I pressed on. After a couple of false starts, I found a street that kept going up the hill and looked like it had more to offer than stores and apartments, so up I walked.
Aberdeen sits at the base of the back side of Victoria Peak. In that back side lies Aberdeen country park where the reservoirs for Hong Kong Island are located. I walked into the entrance to the lower reservoir and its park.
I have pictures, but they are prints-and it seems I cannot get my scanner to work this evening.
However the park is quite nice-and as is present on many places on Hong Kong Island, they have lots of trails in the park. My original plan had been to go into the park, up the peak aways, then turn around and catch the bus back to central. But the day was nice, it was warm, and I wanted to keep moving, lest the effects of the hangover from the previous night’s sojourn in Kowloon come back on me with a vengeance. I stopped at a stand and bought a coke and kept walking. I was just following the trail-upwards.
Pretty soon I was lost. Finally I walked to a sign map-and realized that I was about halfway up the Peak. I also realized for the first time that the Peak Tower was at the top of the trail. “Screw going back-to heck with it. I’ll just keep going up” I wanted to get some more pictures from the peak anyway. So onward and upward I trudged.
About 45 minutes to an hour later I emerged on a street and I could see the Peak Tower. So I followed the Tower. I finally arrived at the tower, very thirsty and very sweaty. ( Its warm in Hong Kong in April).
After I had seen the harbor from every view I could, had a coke at the Pacific Coffee shop, and sent an e-mail from the public machine there-telling him I was in Hong Kong and he was not- I boarded the tram for the trip down the hill.
I can remember thinking to myself how marvelous this all was-and why had it taken me so long to find this place? It was all new and different. And it touched me in a way that no place in or around Shopping Mall will ever touch me. Coming off the tram, I went into Hong Kong Park-solely so I could look up at the buildings in awe.
I knew then, that I envied those men in suits walking out of Pacific Place. How was I to become one of those guys?
I still have not figured that out.
However that particular day remains fixed in my memory as a good day. A day with excitement, with fun, and with the thrill of seeing something new and different.
I want those days back.